Folks who didn’t make the cutoff for first seating - we missed it by two parties - gave phone numbers to be pinged when a table came up. There was a huge line when the doors opened at 11:30 a.m. The room is spare but handsome, and kind service was excellent, even on a jam-packed pre-holiday morning. Katy Asian Town, 2330 Grand Circle Blvd., Suite 180 The rich molten sweet custard inside, the exterior stretch and the pop of sesame seeds make this an item I’ll be compelled to order again and again. You must finish with a lava custard sesame ball, another exercise in exhilarating elasticity. They are gorgeous, though- and fun to eat. Somehow the frying confers an amazing elasticity to the shell, but the effect is so pronounced overshadows the delicate filling. What I’ll never forget, though, is the wild stretchiness of fried bao filled with chicken and ginger essence, the bun dough glazed to a gleamy brown finish on top. I’m pretty sure they’re the best I’ve ever eaten.įor contrast, we ordered steamed rice wrapped in lotus leaves, fragrant and dramatic-looking and perfectly fine, if not memorable. I’ve always loved the slight bitterness of turnip cakes, and both flavors and textures were beautifully managed in this version. And what’s this? Actual chunks of radish inside (it’s really radish that’s used in these square-cut marvels, not Western turnips) complicate matters in the gentlest way. I was wowed by the steamed and pan-fried turnip cakes, lightly crisped on the outside, and trembly-soft within. Here, the traditional orange topping is a single goji berry that pops out visually and, tartly, on the tongue. Just as impressive: pork and shrimp siu mai with a savory filling in which each ingredient kept its textural integrity. And some of the prettiest shrimp bonnets (har gow) I’ve ever seen, their translucent crimped skins clasping a juicy shrimp filling of startling clarity. Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 5 of6 Steamed pork bao from Tim Ho Wan, the new Hong Kong dim sum specialist in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 6 of6 The dining room at Tim Ho Wan Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less Use Next and Previous buttons to navigateġ of6 Turnip cakes at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 2 of6 Sesame lava balls at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 3 of6 Steamed shrimp bonnets at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall Alison Cook/Staff Show More Show Less 4 of6 Fried bao with chicken and ginger essence at Tim Ho Wan in Katy Asian Town mall. (I still mourn the loss of made-to-order practitioner Yum Yum Cha, the pop-and-daughter spot in Rice Village,) That immediacy is vanishingly rare in the world of Houston dim sum. The first steamed dumpling I popped into my mouth was almost dangerously hot and juicy. The fact that the dim sum is made to order here, rather than trundled around on carts, cooling and drying out, makes all the difference in the world. WHERE TO EAT: Houston’s Top 100 Restaurants With its opulent five-spiced BBQ pork filling, pillowy steamed dough and delicate sugared crunch on top, it’s a sweet bite that should be appreciated on its own at first - then contrasted with a make-your-own dip of soy and red chile paste.
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A filigreed tracery of sweet cream skims the surface of the baked bun, looking like cracked ice on a pond. At lunch last week, three weeks into the restaurant’s life, memories flooded back as I bit into Tim Ho Wan’s distinctive char siu bao.
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